For those that don't know how to raise subframes, strut towers etc.

[rayray086]

Perusing around VWVortex and the Professors of Low on the Mk3 forum are at it again. So, this is more of a post to look at off-the-shelf items that help with lowering our Mk3.

Item 1: Banchwerks drop plates for the rear. They basically sit between the rear beam and the stub axle (like camber plates).



BUT, as you can see, they've raised the stub axle locating bolts TWO INCHES above the original mount, hence giving you an extra two inches of travel at whatever ride height you had.



As with the nature of these kind of modifications, it does seem unsafe. Obviously if torqued down correctly, they shouldn't come loose, but my problem with them is the load on the plate once the wheel is attached and everything is lowered back down. Looks like it's gonna snap in that first pic, but the angle is deliberate - these plates double as camber plates and come in 0, -2.5 and -5 degree inclines. So far there hasn't been any horror stories with these plates - some have whined about their poor fitment, but most have praised them for what they can offer.

They're starting to become quite popular on low Mk3s in the States though, due to the benefits they provide (no more smashing bump stops, rear beam sits more "naturally"). To be honest, I really want to give them a try. I think they offer more to the low-conscious than Mason-Tech's Great Plates, as although they centre the wheel more, they still don't provide that suspension travel which is what daily drivers look for.

Pic of a rear setup with the Banchwerks plates + Weitec coilovers wound all the way up:



Seriously, WTF!

Item 2: Early-style modified front strut mounts. Looks like the bore of the bushing is widened out to allow the metal spring cap to sit further up. This supposedly grants an extra 3/4" of extra clearance/lowness.

Modified vs. stock. I don't know if the guy placed the bearings back in after modifying (I've since emailed him asking about them). I can see them in the stock mounts but they seem to be missing in the modified one:




Final product. Don't know why he trimmed the edges either:


I've never seen these strut mounts before, so I'm guessing my '95 runs the later-model mounts. Seeing as the Mk3 front strut towers are the same throughout the years, and aftermarket coilovers only sell parts based on model (Plus suspension vs regular suspension, or VR6 vs 4-cylinder), I guess they don't discriminate between the early-style and late-style mounts. I wouldn't mind trying these mounts out, 3/4" is a sizable amount in clearance!

And for the 1.8L/2.0L guys...

Item 3: Ball joint extenders. As per the description in the website, "drops ball joint 1.5 inches" to "return lower control arm to proper angle to improve front suspension geometry on cars that have been lowered".





I'm not very well-knowledged in this area nor do I really understand why, but from what I gather, good suspension geometry (hence good handling) for the Mk3 is when the control arms are as parallel to the ground as possible. The lower a Mk3 is dropped, the higher the ends of the lower control arms point up. Installing these extended ball joints on a low Mk3 will help with maintaining that parallel LCA suspension geometry.

Extending the ball joints without paying attention to the tie-rods will cause nasty bump-steer, as both tie-rods and LCAs must retain relatively the same geometry in the suspension system. Doing one mod without the other would obviously mess up their alignment with each other.

Item 4: Flipped tie-rod ends.





All it takes to get the tie-rods in line with the LCAs after installing ball-joint extenders is to drill out the tie-rod end insert, place the tapered sleeves in the widened insert, and install the tie-rod end upside-down. I'm guessing PMW ball-joints, extended by 1.5", had the flipped tie-rod end mod in mind when they were figuring out what length to extend them by.

Ball-joint extenders + tie-rod flip:


I've just realised a lot of this came from the "let's discuss low done proper" thread on VWVortex... Oh well, it's all been a good read. Friday night at home blows

[rayray086]

Another pic - extended ball-joints + flipped tie-rods. Note the angle of the LCA with the tie-rod. Almost parallel:

[Mrk_Mickey]

Nice information there Ray, yes I know how Friday nights at home feel haha...

This is definitely a good bunch of options for those who want to go nice and lowwwwww. I'd consider the ball joint extenders/tie rod flippers if I wanted better handling, but alas I don't track my car and it handles the road fine

[rayray086]

I'd consider the ball joint extenders/tie rod flippers if I wanted better handling, but alas I don't track my car and it handles the road fine

At the moment, the only off-the-shelf options for ball-joint extenders are available to non-VR6 owners. The steering knuckles are slightly different and the VR6 uses a different ball-joints too. I suppose the tie-rod flip can be done, if they're starting to rub the chassis.

[mk3pete]

nice write up ray this deserves to be stickied
those drop plates would destroy your tyres though!

[rayray086]

those drop plates would destroy your tyres though!

Just pretend the rears were dropped 2" from the factory - it just means you'll run coilovers higher up!

[KI11Z]

At the moment, the only off-the-shelf options for ball-joint extenders are available to non-VR6 owners. The steering knuckles are slightly different and the VR6 uses a different ball-joints too. I suppose the tie-rod flip can be done, if they're starting to rub the chassis.

Yeh, sucks bad! I've searched for vr6 versions without any luck so far

nice write up ray this deserves to be stickied
those drop plates would destroy your tyres though!

how so?

edit: cool post ray

[mattross]

RayRay...great post....

I have a suspention problem with my VIII GL atm and this sheds some light on the potential problem...

[gldgti]

Yeh, sucks bad! I've searched for vr6 versions without any luck so far



how so?

edit: cool post ray

they add some more neg camber.... you could have parallel ones though if your not running too wide.

[mk3pete]

2.5 wouldnt be too bad but running 5 degrees of neg camber for a daily would be costly.